Antarctica 2010 – Day 10

Another great day for us. Weather conditions can’t be any better.

The plan today was to visit Petermann Island which was a wintering location for one of the French explorers, Jean-Baptiste Charcot. He spent winter there in 1909 aboard his ship, the Pourquoi Pas. It is also the northern-most Adelie Penguin rookery in Antarctica. Besides Adelies, Gentoo Penguins and Blue-eyed Shags breed there too.

The Kayakers made a trip around the shore visiting some of the ice caves and bergs in the bay. Some really spectacular views to see. There was a little more swell in the sea today which made the kayaking that bit more interesting.

After lunch we were invited to visit the Ukrainian Vernadsky Research Station located at the Argentine Islands. This is our southernmost position on the voyage. The station was formerly British and named Faraday and transferred to Ukrainian ownership in 1996. Its real claim to fame is that it was here that the Ozone hole above Antarctica was discovered.

It is also unique for another unusual reason. The station has its very own bar, specially built by the station carpenter when in British possession. It’s a typically British style bar but instead of beer you can now have Vodka, distilled at the station no less! So twelve staff, 6 scientists and 6 supports (electrician, mechanic, doctor etc.) and one distillery…now if that isn’t good prioritising then I don’t know what is!

After a tour around the station by Eugene (because it’s easier than his real name) we sampled some of the local brew and it was good, very good…in fact so good we had to sample more just to be sure.

So with our bellies warmed it was off again to the zodiacs and kayaks for a cruise around the channels and bay along with a visit to Wordie House which was the original British base at the Argentine Islands. It was built around mid 40’s and has been kept exactly as it was. This is not a museum as such but rather just a hut that you can visit. Everything had been left as it was even down to boxes of stores still in storage including cans of coffee, pemmican, Bovril, dried onions and egg powder…yummy! Back to the boats again…

Then Antarctica delivered her greatest gift so far…a group of Humpback Whales. Three whales, two adults and a calf were spotted in the bay and provided a spectacular display of fin slapping and fluking displaying their massive fluke as they dived to feed. This was all happening within feet of the boats so needless to say it was an excited group of explorers that got back to ship.

As we boarded we were met by the crew who handed out rum which we had received from a Brazilian yacht anchored nearby the night before. A perfect end to an even more perfect day…although it wasn’t over for some. After dinner a second group headed out to camp for the night on the Argentine Islands.

Camp was set on a hill with a 360 degree view overlooking the channel and bay. Every one busied themselves pitching tents in case of stormy weather but the plan was to sleep out which we all did. There’s always time for a bit more fun and it wasn’t long before the inner child had us speeding down the hillside on plastic bags. As the light faded, one by one we started to get ready for sleep.

Spending a night in the open wrapped up in sleeping bags and a bivouac is a very special experience. Watching the light change on the mountains and icebergs as day moves to night and listening to the sounds of Antarctic is food for the soul. I don’t think there is anywhere in the world that can compare.

All around you could here the sounds of nature, nearby birds calling, the constant hushed sound of glacial melt water running into the bay and now and then the crack and thunder of a glacier calving or the sound of a whale blow. Pure, pure magic.

Remember you can track the voyage by clicking here.